I had such high expectations of the meetMilk tencel twill. It promised rich jewel colours, a luxe look & feel, and a lovely balance of substance and drape. 100% my vibe and I’m delighted to say that it really delivers. Inspired by AW19 trends, we ordered Navy, Deep Green, Maroon and Rust. As they all go together so beautifully, I tried my hand at some colour blocking, inspired by this Boden shirt dress.
I thought the princess seams of the Named Clothing Saraste shirt / shirt dress would be a nice way to achieve this kind of look.
The Breaking the Pattern book by Named Clothing was a Christmas present last year. When I first read through the patterns, I thought the Saraste shirt and dress was very cool but pretty intimidating. Button up shirts and dresses are very much my thing though, so it felt like a challenge worth taking on. I made the dress version this summer using a striped deadstock cotton shirting (now sold out – sorry!) with a frill of pink viscose at the collar. I made a couple of adjustments:
- Lowered the bust point by 2-3cm using a tutorial by Closet Case
- Took the side seams in at the waist by 2cm each side as I wanted a closer, more defined waist.
For the shirt, I kept the bust point adjustment but I left the waist as per the pattern as I wanted a looser fit. I also omitted the shoulder vents this time, although I would definitely consider including them in a warm weather, lighter weight version.
Even though I had the dress version under my belt, it’s a fairly involved pattern and the sleeve cuffs were tricky. The hardest part on both the collar and cuffs is stitching in the ditch to catch the folded-under seam allowance on the other side. I felt like I was levelling up with this shirt and there’s definitely some room for improvement in the execution but I really, really love wearing it. The fit is really nice and it makes such a difference to have a button positioned right on the full bust – it’s the little things!
Altogether, the tencel twill was lovely to work with and I have a few observations to share:
- Be careful with your iron – don’t go too hot or you’ll mark the fabric
- Don’t panic when you wash it and it feels a lot stiffer. Once it’s dry, it’ll soften up as before.
Last but not least, I have to mention that I started the construction of this shirt at the inaugural Let’s Sew Belfast sewing day, organised and hosted by Mo Spargo. Thanks to the lovely labels Mo gave us, this shirt serves as a lovely reminder of that day. Can’t wait for the next one!